The essential guide to the best places to shop, eat and relax in Edinburgh. Find the best restaurants, cinemas and nightlife spots along with general need-to-know information including shopping hours and going out tips.

If you do one street, it has to be Princes Street. Shops line one side (including Jenners, the oldest independent department store in the world). The other side are gardens with fabulous castle views. George Street is the place for designer fashion and home to upmarket department store, Harvey Nichols. The Royal Mile is tourist tat central, Grassmarket is arts and crafts while Victoria Street has specialist interest shops (lace, brushes, cheesemonger, jewellers).

Before you leave, stock up on whiskey at the award-winning Royal Mile Whiskeys, soft and crumbly Edinburgh Rock, haggis from Crombie's (Broutheon Street, near Princes Street) and contemporary kilts from Geoffrey (Tailor) Ltd, 57-59 High Street, on the Royal Mile. Geoffrey's kilts are sported by the likes of Robbie Williams and Ewan McGregor.

Sunday's Ingliston Market at the Royal Highland Showground (near the airport) is a glorified car-boot sale.

Standard shopping hours are Monday to Saturday 9am-6pm with late-night shopping on Thursday until 8pm.

State-of-the-art Ocean Terminal, a leisure and retail complex designed by Sir Terence Conran, is located in Leith next door to the Royal Yacht Britannia.

Edinburgh's bar and club scene has taken off in the last four years (coinciding with the opening of the Scottish Parliament) and the city now boasts over 700 pubs. Apparently, Edinburgh's consumption of champagne is now one of the highest in the UK. Beer, however, is still the top student choice. The student community keep nights lively, particularly in the bars around the Grassmarket and on High Street (Old Town). Touristy bars congregate on Rose Street (behind Princes Street). Clubs cluster around Grassmarket, George Street and Lothian Road (just west of Grassmarket).

Some venues stay open beyond the traditional curfew (1am for bars and pubs, 3am for clubs) particularly during the Edinburgh Festivals season when bars can extend their licenses to 3am and clubs to 5am.

The smarter set head for George Street (New Town) and trendy types to the developed waterfront in Leith (3km north-east of the centre).

Cosmopolitan Edinburgh offers a global choice of cuisines from Italian to Chinese, Indian to Thai. But the big draw is fine Scottish ingredients which are often served with a fusion twist.

Chef of the moment is Jeff Bland (no pun intended) who has won Edinburgh's second Michelin star for his traditional Scottish cuisine at Number One in the Balmoral Hotel. Upmarket restaurants, where you should dress smartly and expect to pay £50 per head, cluster in the city centre.

Trendy bistros cluster around the Grassmarket (just north of the Royal Mile, at the foot of the Castle) while the Shore in Leith is a street renowned for good fish restaurants.

Try Aberdeen Angus beef, fresh seafood, salmon and, of course, Scotland's national dish - haggis (spices, oatmeal, mutton and beef wrapped in a sheep's intestine and baked) which is traditionally served with tatties 'n neeps (potatoes and turnips).

Standard dining hours (12-2pm and 7-11pm) are extended during the Festival Season (August to early September) when pre-booking is a necessity.

Pre-theatre menus from £9.99 are good value for early diners. A 10 percent tip is standard.

Named Number One for a good reason, Jeff Bland's gourmet haunt is one of Edinburgh's smartest eateries. Make sure you try the wild Scottish salmon. Bland was awarded a Michelin star in January 2003.

It's hard not to be bewitched by the Gothic grandeur, countless candles and theatrical dining experience of The Witchery. Dine on Scottish ingredients with an exotic twist and sample the excellent wine list in a splendid setting.

This bar and kitchen is spread across two floors next door to the Scottish Parliament. The menu includes handmade burgers, bangers and mash, salads and pastas.

A wide range of dishes (Thai/Italian/American) and quirky bar snacks in a sleekly-designed space. Indulge in the tantalising cocktail list and extensive selection of wines, champagnes and spirits.

The place to be and be seen, Oloroso offers fabulous views of Edinburgh Castle from its large roof terrace, while chef Tony Singh cooks classic dishes (Highland steak hamburgers, seared red mullet, expresso tart) in a sophisticated setting.

Do be punctual and wear a suit for business meetings. If you're stuck for a gift, a bottle of fine Scottish whiskey is always well received. Do accept an after-work drink invitation as this is an important part of the business culture. Don't insult your hosts by suggesting Scotland is part of England. Don't forget your umbrella - Edinburgh can be rainy. Don't talk up Glasgow as an international city as Edinburghers like to think themselves the most cosmopolitan of Scots.

Monday to Friday 9am-5pm.

Tourism, IT, finance, education, medical research, manufacturing (chemical industry, electrical engineering, publishing, food and drink).

George Street and the New Town, the Exchange (the financial district just south of Princes Street), and the Royal Mile for the Scottish Parliament and British Council plus other administrative offices.